Lost to Time

How Tibetans in exile keep the idea of homeland alive. An extract

Tsering Namgyal Khortsa

Tibetans lead demonstrations in Dharamsala and other parts of India every year. Indians residing near the Tibetan communities are perhaps used to these protests, the regular commotion, and the loud sloganeering. While they do not whole-heartedly join the protests, they do not seem to mind either, for the Tibetan exile, quite ironically, has presented the neighbouring Indians with plenty of commercial opportunities. The cab drivers of Dharamsala, for instance, have done spectacularly well, following the awarding of the Nobel Peace Prize to the Dalai Lama, which literally put the Himalayan hamlet on the world map. Come spring time thousands of visitors throng the streets of McLeodganj to attend the annual teachings of the Dalai Lama. In recent years, the crowds have swelled to such an extent that unless one books months in advance, it is quite impossible to find accommodation in the town.

Some observers rue the loss of the old, slow way of life. But as Buddhists, we know that nothing exists in isolation; with time comes change. Familiar faces move on, seeking greener pastures abroad. Newcomers move in, attracted as much by the fact that Dharamsala affords opportunities for self-developments as also by the commercial opportunities presented by the burgeoning number of visitors. For every one person that moves out of Dharamsala, at least ten newcomers move in to fill the void, which explains the town’s congestion.

The biggest demonstrations are held every year on March 10^th, to commemorate the anniversary of the failed uprising against Chinese invasion. It was after that fateful rebellion in the Tibetan capital Lhasa in 1959 that the Dalai Lama and his entourage fled into exile in India. Thousands of Tibetans followed later. On this day, the Dalai Lama delivers perhaps his most important address to the people in exile. He updates his followers about the advances he has made in his negotiations with leaders in Beijing and how close his people are to realizing their dream of freedom, of returning home to th